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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.